Thursday, March 5, 2009


Listen to the MUSTN'TS, child,
Listen to the DON'TS


Listen to the NEVER HAVES
Then listen close to me --

Anything can happen, child
ANYTHING can be.
- Shel Silverstein
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Phil Stevenson said...

Is that you Karl? Smooooth.

John said...

hehehe... go Karl

Joe Bousquet said...

Congrats on the foiling gybe. I'm still haven't pulled off a clean one. The 250cm bow sprit looks interesting! But what happen if the wand swings forward of perpendicular??? I'm assuming the mainfoil is still flapless?


Karl said...

Thanks Phil. Yes it is me. Gybing it is more challenging in lumps, but that is true of regular boats also of course. I think I learned to be a bit tentative on this boat due to lots of crazy stacks in the beginning, and that fear was holding me back; now it is just like before: commit to the new side and everything is OK - mostly.

I am finding it takes more time to grow accustomed to the McKee aft bridle mainsheet than I thought it would. I need to trim several inches off the tiller extension and move the mainsheet block forward a bit; when I don't mess up I am moving straight across the top of the daggerboard which is nice - the vang is the only thing in the way. This is all to improve pitch stability, as is the sprit.

The sprit helps a lot and is something I think all Moths would perform better with; current version is outside the rule at 80cm but it is only a proof of concept. I can trim it but I think the class would do well to take another look at that particular rule and set it at something less restrictive like 1m. It makes coming back to a dock a bit trickier but isn't much more trouble than that.

Joe I have gybed a lot on foils but not with this new was eluding me for a long time, mostly because it was sort of unpredictable. But now it is behaving better, thanks to lots of little things.

The wand cannot wrap out there because only the tip of it hits the bow, so I don't really care what it does. Sometimes it runs up the port side of the bow but no matter. It has a preventer of course. I generally set it to run more vertically; the line is only in tension so I just re-tie a couple of knots, in lieu of a planned block adjuster to set it on the water.

Still probably not as quick as the flap through gybes due to wand drag, but there are some really simple things to do to the wand to reduce the drag as it is not optimized at all really. It is not very highly loaded if the system is working correctly.